Don’t Hang Yourself: How To Properly Apply Wallpaper

part two of a series

by: Liz Roberts

Every homeowner’s worst nightmare is hanging wallpaper. Bad enough it has to be torn off but then a new one has to replace it. Nightmares abound of it falling or worse , being applied over mysteriously appearing air bubbles. Take a breath and relax. Wallpaper is an easy application. Just do it with care, concern and above all patience. These three factors will guarantee the best wallpaper job ever!

First remove all of the old wallpaper before hanging the new. Most people do consider this a chore but it’s actually pretty easy to do. Start by stripping the outer face off the old wallpaper. Remember that it’s either a vinyl coating or just simply a dense layer of paper. Doing this will leave only the backing material and glue. Prepare a wallpaper stripping solution, consisting of water and just a little dishwashing detergent. This mixture should be then sponged onto the backing material and allowed to soak (pre-wetting is also necessary) for at least ten minutes. A garden type sprayer will speed up the soaking process if there's a hurry. Attempt to remove the backing material with either a wallpaper scraping tool or any flat bladed tool such as a putty knife. If this fails simply rewet the backing and allow to soak for a longer time period. The more it soaks, the easier the removal job. If the backing is really stubborn about coming off then use a white vinegar solution consisting of one part vinegar to three parts water. A paper scorer may have to be used. (buy this any home improvement or paint store).

Once bared, the walls may have to be prepared. They can either be painted with an oil based primer or a latex preparation specifically designed for “sealing”.. Priming will protect wall’s paper face when it’s removed years later and also allows the paste to stay on top of drywall. Patch any dents or holes with ready made spackle if you have to and sand flush prior to priming or “sealing”. Remember to also turn off all electrical power for the room and remove any and all switch plates and electrical outlet covers. Sand over any glossy painted walls. This will help the wallpaper to adhere better. Liquid sandpaper is not recommended for this because it leaves an oily film. This will cause poor adhesion for the paper. Paint all baseboards and moldings prior to wallpapering.

Now it’s time for the job at hand! The first step is checking the pattern along with the run and dye numbers, making sure they are all the same. Also carefully check each bolt for printing and shading defects. Thoroughly read the manufacturer’s directions. Save all labels and packaging information in case more paper is needed (keep in mind that extra wallpaper should have been previously bought for later touch ups and repairs) Mistakes do happen and there should be extra wallpaper at hand if any has to be thrown out.

The second most important job is creating the plumb line. Start with the least noticeable wall. Measure out from the corner and the wall the width of the paper minus ½ inch. Place a level at the mark and draw the plumb line - a straight vertical line. This will be the guide where the first two strips will meet.. Remember that the job’s success depends on having the first strip hung straight. Follow this procedure every time a new corner is reached or a new wall is started. Now go around the room and mark where each strip will end to keep track of the number of strips needed. This will also help in avoiding ending a wall segment with a narrow strip. Avoid these at any cost. Not only are they difficult to hang, they are also wasteful (a regular strip has to be cut in half just to accommodate the smaller wall segment). Catching this would be problem in advance will allow for adjusting the starting point.

Look at the pattern carefully before cutting. Remember that wallpaper has four basic types. There is the random match that contains patterns that do not have specific match points such as textured wallpaper(such as grass or flocked). These papers often look better if the strips are reversed; alternating tops and bottoms of successive strips. One side is usually a little lighter than the other in this case.

The second type is the drop match pattern that is a design running diagonally across the wall. Ever other strip will match along the ceiling line. The design may form a diamond grid (four of the same shapes are at north, south east and west positions around another shape). Most drop matches will tell what the pattern repeat is ,(ie six repeat, eight repeat, etc) This design is sometimes known as am offset match.

There is also the straight across match. This is when the figures form an overall motif design. The same elements of each strip’s design are in equal distance from the ceiling line.

Lastly there is the free match which is when there are matches between the design elements. These should align in a diamond confrontation, and not side by side. The design elements may be separated by the trim going between strips. Design matches must be aligned to maintain consistence of form.

Remember that the easiest way to match any of these patterns is to cut the first strip , lay the roll directly next to it and line up the pattern. Also four extra inches both at top and bottom. There will be a pattern emerging after a couple of strips have been cut. Use this as a guide to cutting out the rest of the needed paper.

Cut the first strip with a straight edge. Use either a dull blade razor or a long bladed scissor (a household scissor is a good substitute.).Now may be the time to invest in utility scissors or wallpaper shears. After all cutting has been done, roll up the extra wallpaper and store away from both direct light and sunlight.

These are the first steps in creating a beautifully papered room. Make sure the walls are first primed and ready otherwise it could lead to a disaster. Also be conscientious in keeping the pattern consistent when cutting out the wallpaper. Doing this will ensure the actual hanging will go smoothly along.