A Vine Time For Grapes
by: Liz Roberts

Grape growing is the most ancient of all horticultural practices. The early Greeks and Romans cultivated vines, tending them with all the nurturing and care of 21st century gardeners. Grapes have a long history of adding to landscapes. Growing their regal looking vines will lend an ageless beauty to any yard or garden. Not only can they be eaten for dessert, they can be made into jellies and even wines. They are interesting to grow and process into food.

Before you have visions of your own Napa Valley, consider your climate. The ideal one for grape growing is one that is not too hot or humid. The next consideration is your terrain. Grapes can grow well on level ground but they can also thrive on sloped or terraced land. If there is a problem of erosion, then plant grass on alternative aisles to prevent vines from washing away. Also use trellis wires to hold the vines in place.

As far as the grapes themselves you can either grow wine or table grapes depending upon your tastes. If you’re a home vintner, then experiment with the different types of grapes used for merlots and chardonnays. Fruit lovers should stick with the table grapes. Vines are then divided into two types, the European(Vitis vinifera) and American(Vitis labrusca). European grapes do better being grown inland with dry soil conditions. This type does require more spraying and care than the American. It does produce a better quality grape. The varieties are the Flame Seedless, a red, seedless grape to the Muscat Hamburg, a rich blue black fruit. Included in the European family are the Red Seedless and the Ruby Seedless. Gardeners living in coastal areas should cultivate the American type which thrives better along ocean fronts and riverbanks. They have hardier vines than the European, however the fruit quality is slightly inferior. Types include the purplish red Iona grape, the black Isabella and Wilder grapes. Hybrids can be also be planted such as the Lady Patricia, which produces golden yellow fruit and the Aurelia which gives greenish yellow grapes.

Some more diligent gardeners start their grapes from seeds, however vines from these are either slow growing or no growing. The surest bet for a thriving, successful vine is propagation. Vines are cut from cuttings taken from previous seasons’ growths. This is great if there’s a nearby grape grower. Cuttings are usually bought through the local nursery and even through the Internet. Vines cuttings can cost anywhere from $1.00 to $3.00 and can be usually bought rooted in containers.

Planting rooted cuttings usually is done in the late winter or early spring. Remember that before the planting, to shorten any long roots that may be at the base of the vine sample (or cutting). Plant the cutting into the ground at the same depth that it was in the container. This is to avoid tangling later on. Plant cuttings about ½” apart. When doing this , dig the planting hole large enough to accommodate the roots. Do not add manure or any decomposing matter to the hole. Grapes do not like it when there is too much rot near their roots. Now prune the vines’ tops at this time. Do this by selecting the best cane and snapping off the others. Leave two to four buds on the remaining shoot. These will develop into new vines by the summer and may even start to develop grape clusters as well.

Trellises play an important part in grape growing. The vines can thrive better on a simple

Wire trellis or even trained to grown on the side of any fence or building. For a romantic look, train the vines to entwine around an overhead pergola.

Constructing a three wire trellis is really a no brainer. Have a one inch (12 gauge) wire run through three durable, hardwood posts. Place the first wire ½ inch above the ground level, the second wire ¼ inch above the first and the third another ¼ inch above the second. Remember that the bottom most wire supports the vine’s frame. The second and third ones hold up the canes or stalks carrying the fruit and foliage.

Let one month elapse and water the grape vines on a regular basis. This is a crucial time for both vines and roots to dry out. Don’t prune during the plant’s very first summer. The more leaves that are above ground, the more roots there will below ground. Doing this will also mean a better chance of survival for the grape vines. Fertilize only in the early springtime. Do not fertilize after midsummer because doing so will damage the vine. Late fertilization will also not allow the grapes to enter dormancy – a kind of plant hibernation period.

Pruning should only be done in the winter or when the vines are fully dormant. Pruning can be done in early spring but this will cause the vines to “bleed”, allowing sap to come out. Don’t prune in the fall or the vines will die come winter.

Like any plant, grape vines are susceptible to diseases. Be on the lookout for anthracnose or black spot. Leaves will be overtaken by measles like brown spots that will eventually turn black. Also watch for two kinds of mildew. Downy mildew can affect both leaves and grapes. It starts out as pale yellow, translucent spots that can kill the leaves. Grapes growing on these vines will turn gray. Powdery mildew covers and destroys leaves with smothering white patches that spread to other vines. Infected grapes become distorted, reddened or cracked.

What to do with all that luscious fruit? See the recipe in the side bar.

Now enjoy both the grape and the grape butter!

Here’s a Pennsylvania Dutch recipe for grape butter (taken from Edna Eby Heller’s Dutch Cookbook copyright 1948).

1 quart grapes
3 tablespoons water
2 lbs. sugar.

Wash, take off stems and measure the grapes, putting in a large pot.. Add water and sugar. Stir thoroughly. Now boil twenty minutes. Strain and pour into prepared sterile glasses or jars. Seal with paraffin.